Saturday 25 May 2019

The Long Road to Ullapool

I'd mentioned to Rob on the cycle tour that I had an interesting 75 mile mt bike route lined up for the following week. But when we got home after that trip after drying out I went for the book I'd seen it in and discovered that it was not 75 miles but 75km.

this GPS thing is good!


Really not a big deal, but as well as wanting to ride this route I thought it would of been just the right challenge if it had been in miles..

Old croft
The route starts from Black Bridge on the A835 and ends in Ullapool. Google research and the book suggested an Inverness coach company offered bike transport for the return, but ultimately that wasn't the case...


I bought a Garmin GPS ages ago, mainly because it's required for the Offroad Finnmark race, and hadn't really used it, but having found a file online for this particular route I loaded it on to test out the technology (that I seem to be the last person using).




Setting off reasonably early, immediately it was great having the GPS route showing me the way and not having to get maps out at every estate track junction as I headed North gently gaining height towards Loch Vaich.



I passed some interesting croft ruins before entering the Alladale Estate where everything seemed a lot more managed. When I say managed I don't mean in a bad way as there were masses of new tree's planted and I know to an extent the estate are 'rewilding' wanting to reintroduce wolfs..


My next stop was the Church at Croick and I had another look at the East window were people evicted from the Glencalvie area during the Highland Clearances had scratched words, names and dates into the glass. Very thought provoking and tragic.

old school house bothy
From here the track, although not technical got a little wilder and was really nice and interesting as again I went over another watershed before dropping to Duag Bridge and the (old) school house bothy. I decided to have some food and a 10 minute break here as energy levels were low. I think this was at approx 47km.

lesson time
I met an interesting American 'hiker' in the bothy who was walking the Cape Wrath Trail, he talked about how much hiking he has done, before saying he wouldn't recommend this trail to anyone! I wasn't convinced that his paper thin and shredded waterproofs were totally the right decision for this trail, allegedly the toughest (at least boggiest) walk in the UK. He sounded pretty miserable as he has been wet with not great weather for days. I didn't cheer him by informing him that Sat and Sunday were very wet - but I couldn't lie!

where have my legs gone..
I think I had misjudged my food intake and that partly accounted for the empty legs and I really struggled on the next section to the Knockdamph bothy were I had another sneaky (from myself) rest!  Pretty good bothy... From here as I'd eaten back at the school house my energy levels came back - phew.

luxury bothy room !

I saw more Cape Wrathers on the next section, seemingly better equipped than the American with more substantial waterproofs!

wee rest - don't tell anyone
As the trail dropped to Glen Achall and the Rhidorroch estate I felt a little empty again and the persistent strong head wind had been with me for the last 2 - 3 hours started to bug me.. Passing the Ullapool quarry that I didn't know existed I rolled into Ullapool and went straight to the Sea Food Shack for food - which was very good.

mmm food
So the bus hasn't been running for a few years despite the timetable still being online so I got a taxi back to my van having a great blether with Mrs Ewen on the drive back! A great day, but I'm not totally happy with my fitness and worry about how I will make twice this distance in a single 'sitting'.. Guess I have 2 months left at least!

Ullapool
footnote - putting my woes into perspective, yesterday the Highland Trail 550 (miles) race started.. I know a couple from Kendal in it, and it's incredible to think that they will eat up 550 miles and I'm worried about 150km/90 miles!

footnote 2 - It's just struck me that the thing I enjoy most about cycling is the journey, exploring and taking pictures to try and capture the essence of it without rushing through too much.. so this race in Norway is going to be difficult because I really want to take my camera and a small tripod on it.. but know I can't.. what am I doing!?

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