Tuesday 9 May 2023

Tour des Loch Ness

Just back from a short bike packing trip with French Kev. We scaled back plans due to covid (less this) and being unfit (more this) and did a trip from home, circumnavigating Loch Ness over 2 days. 

The aim of the first day was to get just beyond Fort Augustus on the South of Loch Ness. We set off in good time in sunny weather sauntering across the Kessock. 


It was only after passing town and getting into the forest on the Great Glen Way that Kev mentioned he hadn't bought any water with him, but had an empty filter bottle with him to collect water on the way. This concerned/perplexed me a little given the current dry conditions and the fact that I drink 2-3 litres a day when cycling... but Kev suggested that this strategy came from the Tour Des Combin group ride (I think there were crossed wires somewhere). But I will add at this point that his strategy did work for him.


The first break stop was at Abriachan Forest where we made a coffee. Kev realised that he hadn't brought a cup, but to be fair I'd forgotten my tooth brush so nothing is perfect! 



I've cycled the section from Inverness to Drumnacdrochit many times and really like it passing through different types of forest before some nice steep single track that pops you out in farm land near Drum. Drum is a funny place with Nessieland and the tourist tat shops! There should almost be a law against it, but it did save Kev as he bought a Nessieland mug for the rest of the trip (and life!).


The hill out of Drum is a killer... today was no different. After this we had lunch before the next long forest section. I find the section between Drum and Invermoriston long, but interesting and this time we took the high route option which was brilliant and much better than the low route I did last time. 



Up until this point we had seen quite a lot of walkers trudging North, mostly American, all really friendly. After Drum we hardly saw anyone on the trail. The single track down from the high route/point was brilliant and we saw our first and only other bike packers here heading North.


 


Invermoriston to Fort Augustus is a shortish section and passed relatively quickly and before we knew we were sitting on the garage forecourt in front of the shop with crisps, pop and ice creams! It was a hot day so I felt fairly ready to stop cycling at this point having been on the go for about 8-9 hours at this point (can't exactly remember).


I'd asked Graeme, a local cyclist/friend if he knew of a good camp spot around this halfway point and he suggested camping by Loch Tarf, which meant a massive climb before we could stop! But then at least day 2 would be a bit shorter. 








He'd also given the tip of not bothering with the trail for this climb and using the road (the trail is to steep/slow to ride), so up the road we went. On and on....

But Loch Tarf was great, a little exposed for the flappy tent that we had, but nice to finely stop. I would say that I fell asleep to the sound of Snipe drumming... but I didn't sleep due to the tarp tent sounding like a sail and blowing into my head all night!!! Nice to hear the snipe though.



We got away at 8am on day 2 and started with a bit of pushing the bikes. Very scenic spot though. I'd not done the return loop on the South Loch Ness Trail before and it's really good, and very different to the North side.


Day 2 is a bit easier (overall less ascent I think), but not without it's moments. The scenery just seems different. After nice flowing trails we happily got to Foyers and had a coffee in the cafe before more pleasant tracks (and one horrible) led us further North. 



There was an amazing downhill after one of the biggest climbs on this side, sorry I can't remember the name of it, and I'm now too sleepy to look it up, but when you finally get to the top you feel perched on a high hillside with Loch Ness below which looks as expansive as the sea! The run down is massive, and steep, but all rideable, and as a bonus after this there's lots of traversing on balcony trails as I did worry we would have to go up hill again.






Dores is the next pass through point, which is pretty much the end of Loch Ness and nearly back (maybe 10 miles left). It's weird because Dores is always busy and is a good spot to look down Loch Ness, but it's generally freezing and uninspiring to linger, and today was the same. Kev wanted lunch, but I was cold and uninspired so forced us on!

Dores (always cold!)

Half an hour later my batteries were suddenly flat but we were on a nice track in the forest by the road side so we just sat down and made a much needed coffee and I had a lie down! After a relaxing break there were more great new balcony forest trails before we hit the Inverness suburbs. 



Weaving through town we headed straight to the Black Isle Bar for a celebratory drink (and sneaky pizza). A great place to sort of finish, before the last 5 miles back home across the Kessock Bridge again. 




86 miles / 2800m ascent / 2 days