Monday, 26 February 2018

Torridon ice hunt

Shaw made another trip North from the Lakes to climb and sample Loz's whisky collection.. I wasn't sure if the pair of them would be in a fit state for a big day after some drams but they were as awake as me when I met them at 6am for the drive West towards Torridon.

Nice walk in

Looking further North

We settled on Beinn Eighe and hoped to climb its East Buttress (IV, 4), which takes a line up the left most buttress of the three (looking at them) after traversing into it on a long snow slope. Its North facing and the guide book stated that it can be climbed in any conditions - we'd had some thaw, but it had gone back to cold and the snow had consolidated. 

Lets traverse...


Keep traversing...
The walk in to the corrie is quite long but on a good path. I can see that if this path was under snow it would an even more time consuming trek. I was pretty blown away by the view when we turned the corner and could see the triple buttresses and our planned route. Its a pretty magical place.

Me somewhere on the route

Loz topping out into the sun
The Triple Buttresses looked a little bare and 'un-wintery' initially but our route looked to have more cover with definite snow on it (in places!). The traverse in along a banked out snow shelf was fun, and time consuming as we used the rope for some of it and it went on and on.

Sanctuary of the top
At the bottom of the route we again paused not sure of how wintery the route was, but as we climbed it quickly became apparent that it was in winter 'nic' and axes and crampons were required! I certainly wouldn't have fancied some of the snowy grooves/corners without.

enjoying the views

It was a great route with some lovely mixed rock sections and the views of Liathach and a large portion of the Highlands was great. The descent due South from Coinneach Mhor was a steep and unpleasant end to the day, I think next time I'll try a different way down.. But overall a great but reasonably tiring day, 11 hours car to car!

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