Sunday 7 July 2019

The time is nigh!

I've lost count on how many times I've nearly gone to climb the Cioch Nose in Applecross, or maybe that's an exaggeration, but there have been a few over the last 2 years. So given a positive forecast we headed out West when Jack eventually turned up (he was 5 mins late).


the bealach
We stopped for a quick coffee and cake on the way through Loch Carron and I was immediately reminded of Martin Moran being in his home village. The last time I had bumped into him was at Moy last year I think and he was with Andy Nisbet. Now both sadly gone, what a loss.

now where are we
The weather did look fine until we got near the top of the Bealach na Ba. At the top it was completely claggy with 5-10m of visibility and then started to rain. We quickly got bored and went for some respite down to Applecross where typically the weather was fine.

oh there it is!
After more loafing around, seeing the weather was improving and trusting the forecast we headed back to the Bealach. By now it was clear but very cold with an icy wind!

the approach ledge
Wearing all layers we headed up the track to the aerial mast. Mistake number 1 - I hadn't felt the need for a map as the description all sounded very straight forward.. "walk 150m East from the mast, find a grassy gully to descend".. Well we didn't have a map or compass and quickly set off the wrong way as it looked more plausible.


show boating

We ended up round on Sgurr a' Chaorachain, but with a fine view of the Cioch Nose! We later realised why, because from the mast the route to/from the Cioch Nose is very unassuming, all you can see is a rocky plateau and nothing else indicating a promontory or ridge, which in fact it very much is. I guess that's because it has hundreds of Paps/lumps/ridge undulations (well 7 I think).


From our position we were able to roll and slip down another steep grassy slope into the valley and follow it along to the start of the climbing.

the top of the pitched climbing
It's a staggering place, so dramatic with so much rock! The weather was okay, probably no better than okay, but the rock was dry and the climbing brilliant. Such a classic route. The 6 pitches seemed to pass quite quickly but it's almost after this that the fun starts.

looking back at some of the Paps
Loz had warned me that the scrambling after this goes on a while and he wasn't kidding. We decided to solo it keeping a rope and gear handy in case but we never used it. Even doing it this way it seemed to go on forever with many down climbs then re-ascents between the Paps.

up/down
It felt very alpine and grand and I think I had kind of underestimated the day, or at least thought it would be physically easier than it was, but a great day out. It will be interesting to go back for some of the other routes at some point, and Jack was a good sport carrying out a stone for the patio on the last mile or so!

goodbye cioch nose

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