The Affric Kintail Way on Tattie Day..

I've fancied biking the Affric Way for a while and with the Highland 'tattie day' (public holiday) it gave me an extra day to play with. So I decided not to pick potatoes for which the day was given and load up the bike....

Lets hustle

Its interesting that 'bike packing' has become so popular/mainstream and trendy, even featuring on Countryfile! I guess I'm inadvertently 'on trend', which for those who know me (and me for that matter) is very amusing!

Love an old concrete bus station with village notice board

So I loaded up the bike and managed to get a lift part way to Drumnadrochit the official start of the trail. It's interesting riding a mt bike that's laden with stuff, almost immediately a slower travelling pace is forced upon you as you and the bike are less nimble. It was a (slower) joy to cycle the forest trails through to Cannich. I definitely observed more around me travelling this way stopping frequently to look at the magical Autumn colours.

Love a good log too..!

I nearly rode the route in a day, but really wanted to stay in the bothy so deliberately split it into 2 days. Getting to Cannich around noon I did slightly panic that I would get to the bothy very early and wish I'd pushed through but I shouldn't have worried....

Glen Affric - amazing colours at the moment (bike and trees)

The Autumn colours were spectacular around Glen Affric too, and I met two hikers fully loaded up with massive packs near the end of the Glen Affric road who said that they were also heading to the bothy.... but I never saw them again - guess they didn't get that far.

Open country 

My pace had to slow after Loch Affric as the track roughened and it took longer than I anticipated to get to the YHA, now boarded up for the winter. I had a break here and looked at the cosy winter room that they leave open for travellers (one to remember).

Guess its this way!

Up until this point I had managed to keep my feet dry, but the 3km from the YHA to the bothy was very wet with bog and river crossings so the legs were firmly damp by the time I arrived at the bothy. It had also started to rain and sadly my sleeping bad was a tad damp when I got it out of the waterproof bag at the bothy! Oh dear!

I'd heard mediocre reports of the Camban bothy, but it was pretty good with 2 livable rooms with a fire place in each. There was a guy in one room already with kit scattered (filling) the whole room and after a brief chat it seemed like he didn't want company, so I took the other roof and made myself at home.

Hoping I didn't end up like this hiker..

I was so glad I'd bought the candles and firelog, and once it got dark it was nice and cozy. It was great to have some hot food and bed down, occasionally waking to hear the stags roaring out on the hillside. I slept well, about 14 hours on and off!

The shut up hostel

The other guy was chatty in the morning complaining of a long night and I got away just as the darkness turned into a gloomy morning light. Unfortunately the rain had now set in but it didn't matter.

Yay - Camban bothy

The section of trail from the bothy to Morvich is brilliant, at first amazing rideable single track that I 'stumbled' through in the morning gloom before it goes through the spectacular pass thats steep and rocky which I didn't risk riding.. I mulled over that if I had a (Santa Cruz) Bronson with dropper post and no bags on the bike most of it would go (I can dream)!

Cosy bothy night

I only took one picture on this section as the day got wetter and wetter, in fact by the time I hit the road I was fairly wet and cold... There didn't appear to be anything at Morvich, but to be fair I cracked on North on the coast road looking for a cafe. Sadly there wasn't a cafe (or anything open) at Dornie so I pressed on for Kyle hoping to get the early train back home to Inverness. This wet slog was mentally draining but only lasted a couple of hours and I made the early train. It was great to board the train after standing shivering at the station in all of my clothes waiting patiently with the holiday makers who had been to Skye and were now homeward bound. I was the only muddy cyclist so slightly stood out. Typically (as lots of stuff shuts down in the Highlands in winter) the station toilets, waiting room and cafe were all 'closed for the season'!

Last picture before the rain made me put the camera away

So what did I learn!?
1) Well the Alpkit bike packing kit works really well apart from the leaky bag which I'm sure Alpkit will sort out.
2) Bike packing is a great way to travel, I covered 65 miles in a day and a half (as opposed to walking the route over maybe 4 days).
3) Its quite tough!
4) Finally I definitely need a frame bag. I had to use a 30 ltr rucksack as well for food and cooking stuff, so transferring this to the bike in a frame bag would be brilliant... Just need to measure up and get one now! A really fun adventure.

Homeward bound

Ups and downs on the West Coast

With a late change improved forecast for the West I changed my mind from mt biking in the Cairngorms to head West and I'm glad that I did.

Gairloch

The ride I planned started at Slatterdale on the way to Gairloch, and I guess I didn't have high expectations for it as I thought that it would be inferior to Ben Damph, but surprises were in store for me.

The parking by Loch Maree is stunning and it was so nice to be there on such a sunny morning. I headed from here up the road, firstly passing stone valley (climbing area), before darting onto a easily missable track that took me all of the way to Gairloch.

the rideable bit

This trail was great, and just continued to get better and better. Such lovely forests to cycle through. At Gairloch I had a quick spin on the beach before heading North out of town on the road. Even with these road sections I was already thinking that this ride was far better than the Ben Damph circuit which really surprised me!

It wasn't long before I got to the Tollie Path (the old road to Poolewe) and headed off road again. The initial few mile of this to the high point was brilliant, almost all rideable. Just a fantastic piece of trail...

swim in loch Maree

But then came the 'rub', you get to the col, or high point with stunning views down to loch maree and set off... and within 200+m its unrideable (boo!). Sadly then it's mostly a long walk with the bike back to Slatterdale. There are short rideable sections, but not much. On one I had a wee tumble, only really winding myself but it was enough of a shock to make me wish I'd told someone where I was riding today!

Looking on the internet it looks like this section of the trail suffered massive water damage 2+ years ago and everyone since has noted how bad it now is - very sad.

But it was still a fun day, and I finished it with a swim in loch Maree, which was surprisingly warm.

On a (bike) mission

I wanted a challenge this weekend, but with the weather picture changing constantly I had to be flexible with my plans. Friday night in Tesco's I wondered if I had dithered for too long as I frantically tried to shop and get high energy food for Saturday. I also had another last minute worry as I'd asked Tom and Sheddy what they thought of my plan and Tom's reply 'Chafing is our enemy gentleman' didn't help and sent me into the pharmacy aisle madly looking for a bike crevice lubricant cream!

here we go..

The best weather was on the East and so I decided I would be brave and go for a 90-100km mt bike loop of the Cairngorms (I'm not sure of exact length). I'd seen this loop years ago in a book and it vaguely suggested to split it into 2 days. I did want to bike pack and stay out a night, but it still being midge season, and the fact that the half way point is a very busy bothy got me thinking that it would be good to challenge myself and do it in a single day.

Bridge 2

I headed south early and parked up near Glenmore lodge setting off at about 7am. I had no concept of how long it would take because I hadn't set foot on about 50% of the tracks but the bits I knew were easy fast tracks. I estimated 12 hours, but took lighting just in case!

Rothiemurchus bothy 

Gliding along the initial tracks, bypassing Loch Morlich the forest was serene with no-one around, a light dew on the ground and I was breaking through the morning cobwebs across the trail. 

Inside the new bothy - Glen Feshie

I was absolutely filled with uncertainty and worry about how the day would go, which is strange, and not so strange. I guess I normally bike 25 - 40 km routes so this was a big(ger) undertaking for me, but I also had thoughts of what if I get stuck Braemar side..... what would I do!

Leaving Glen Feshie behind round the next corner

Delightful riding saw me over the cairngorm club bridge, past Loch an Eilean and heading to Glen Feshie. When you get past the road terminus I love riding down this glen, and I was also excited about seeing the newly renovated bothy. 

Another bridge!

Like moths to a candle the new bothy was heaving as I stopped for a quick peek at about 8.30am. What an amazing bothy complete with toilets, outdoor BBQ pit and a stags head. There were a couple of mt bike groups here (holiday with group leader I think) and I wondered how they had got their large cool boxes full of beer and food here as I zipped past. These were the last people I would see for many hours.

The haribo section

The next section was unknown to me but really nice as you continue to follow the river Feshie South, and then East. There was a little pushing (boggy), before a fantastic section of single track  near the Geldie Burn before again hitting the fast landy track, past a poor ruin and onward to White Bridge. 

Tumble down ruin/shelter with dirt floor and the odd plank to sit on

Again beautiful (sunny) cruising to the Linn of Dee and people again, well cars! For many hours I'd decided that Bob Scott's bothy at Derry Lodge would be a crucial point to get to and that I would have lunch here so I was pleased and quite tired when I got here at 1pm. 

White Bridge

I had a proper rest and some food in the bothy, it was idillic with the smell of people and the fire from the night before, but the floor was swept and everyone had gone, I'm sure filling again this particular evening once more. 

Resting in Bob Scotts

The next section North up Glen Derry is great and I know it well. A 'helpful' 'jogger' in much lycra informed me that the bridge was closed further North! Which I found bizarre as you can ford the river nearly anywhere, and I wasn't going that way! I wished him well, thanked him for his important warning (I think he was a little unsure where he was going...) and carried on. 

Glen Derry - love this section

I love this section as its so scenic as you feel you are getting into the heart of the Cairngorms. I'd only ever been as far as the 'closed bridge' before, the junction to then go West to the shelterstone/Hutchinson bothy etc. Today I was heading due North through the Lairig an Laoigh and old drovers pass. 

I knew that this would be the hardest bit of the day and due to being on the last quarter of my ride/day tiredness really got to me and I really slowed down pushing my bike up the generally rocky trail to the pass. My worst fears were also confirmed and I had to walk the bike down and along the other side to the Fords of Avon, but I had pretty much expected this!

Into the showers, and head for the pass

I'd always wanted to see the bothy here, I was amazed at how small it is, but a life saver in bad weather I am sure.  I met some other bikers here who were just starting the Cairngorm loop, a 300km unofficial race which happens every year. They informed me that only 3 people were starting this year. They had exotic bikes strewn with (small) bags and equipment. One on a rigid fat bike, the most interesting some form of 29er hardtail with front powered hub (for GPS/lights etc) and amazingly skinny tyres. I suspect he was a well seasoned endurance cyclist. They weren't carrying much for the 56 hour time limited route/challenge! 

Top of Lairig an Laoigh - sadly only ridable for 100m!

The sun finally came out as I left the bothy on a mix of rideable and unridable trail. I knew I would make it now, even though I couldn't ride for toffee at this stage and bounced from rock to rock somehow missing the sandy trail in-between! 

Fords of Avon - I will make it!

Finally pushing to the shoulder of Bynack More I knew it was downhill all the way back to the van. The descent was great, but super concentration required with all of the steps and drainage channels to dodge. I cruised back past the green lochan and finally stopped at the van, 11 hours after setting off! 

Bynack Moor, the sun and finish beckon

(Will have to see if Kev likes the idea of this loop so that I can GPS it next time to see if it is indeed 100km -  haha!)

Torridon Highs

I've been a bit remiss with the blog of late... a sea kayaking day, trip to the Lakes and climbing...

So with a day to play with and inspiration to get out West with the bike I headed to Torridon to ride the much talked about Tour of Ben Damph.

After being chased by Jack and Jenna in his bright yellow Honda Jazz (they were going up Liathach) I ended up at the Torridon Inn and set off.

Beach life

I really enjoyed the initial easy stretch that follows the shore, taking a small detour to a headland for a photo opportunity - I think worth it! The ride then follows Loch Damh South past a wee fishing hut that marks the end of the landrover track and start of the single track.

This section is great, passing small beach's and having fine views. I was slightly saddened that at Kinloch Damph expecting great single track and remoteness (or feeling of) there's a new hydro scheme being constructed and they have decimated 3 miles of track, built bridges, roads... basically trashed the place. Hopefully when its complete some restoration is achieved - must write to them about this!

Slabs - thats Torridon

I got quite angry about this, but once I left the giant pipes and heavy machinery behind at the hydo's intake point in Strath a' Bhathaich the nice trail reappeared and sense of calm returned. I had to push some of the fine trail up to Drochaid Coire Roill (col), but that was nice as it allowed me to linger and look around. I think I have read somewhere that this landscape feels and looks quite Tolkienesque, and it certainly felt that today with the silver shimmering Torridon Peaks to the NE in view.

I had fun messing about with the camera at the col, playing on the rock slabs and even thought of a dip in the lochan... but at 12 degrees that didn't quite happen. The long descent was interesting! Loz raved about this... I enjoyed it, but obviously having an off day found it pretty hardcore. Its pretty loose and rocky with tennis ball to bowling ball cobbles! Basically I took it easy and wished I had lowered my seat +/- had a big travel bike and knee guards! I really enjoyed the the last section in the forest - now that was mega.

Mount doom

Overall I give it 7/10! It would have been 9/10 if not for the hydro scheme. I great Scottish ride that I can see why people say its a must do. It's definitely on the list for when Kev visits in Oct!

In the Hands of the Gods

That's how it felt yesterday. Lots of idea's for climbing, but after another sunny week, it was a very unsettled weather forecast in the Highlands this weekend. In the end it looked marginally better on the East and we headed to Strathconon a local glen to look at Salamander, a HVS I've been wanting to climb for ages.

It feels very remote as you drive up the endless glen... We ditched the van eventually and used bikes to get up Gleann Meinich on the forest road. The crag rears up on the right as you get to the end of the glen.

Before the rain!

Leaving the bikes it started to rain, and looked pretty grey... but as it's a steep walk up to the crag we pressed on, hoping it was a passing shower.

Jack latching the belay ledge on pitch 1

It's pretty tortuous ascending the steep heather slopes, but we got to the crag eventually. Wow - what a ticky place, socks tucked into shoes, endless ticks on the trousers had to be brushed off on the walk in. Amazing variation of tick, from pin head sized critters, to 3-4mm with orange backs! I knew there was a reason I'd thought that this would be a good Autumn/Winter venture!

Questing 

The 6 pitch climb is amazing! Sublime climbing on every pitch, with great variety. The first dog - leg crack started easily and then turned into a wild, but grippy off-width with good gear that you had to stem. This was followed by a bolder slab/face pitch, and so the variety went on. The 2 final pitch's are worth mention, as penultimately you get an amazing looking hanging corner (its easy but brilliant), and Jack's last pitch was an unlikely looking chimney that looked wild, but did have gear, and was okay in the end! It's also worth mentioning that the 5b variant we took on pitch 3 was better climbing and protection than the original route, and more like 5a!

Lets get out of here!

During the last hour or so on the route the wind had picked up and it was pretty cold, I just kept thinking amazing that it's 30 degree's in the South of England today as I felt I was verging on hyperthermia!

The walk down and out was pretty tortuous, but short lived with gravity on our side. I really great adventure that I felt we were lucky to achieve, as it really could have gone either way with the weather today.

Centurion - worth the wait

The heat wave continues.... and getting closer to the weekend I was excited for possibilities, but unsure what was coming because of changing plans and climbing partners however a chance message set the path - Centurion on Ben Nevis.

Going to be a bonny day!

I've wanted to climb Centurion the famous Whillians route for over 10 years and when I found out that Andy had the same idea and has wanted to climb it for 20 years then well it would be rude not to.

Theres our wee crag

I left Inverness at 5.30am, Andy drove up from Preston the night before - the lengths we go to! It was warm and midgy when we met in the North Face carpark, but the midges weren't an issue after the forest.

Brief wait for pitch 1!

What a day with perfect weather, and we made good time to the CIC hut where we bumped into Murdo, who said he was up doing some second ascents of new (Dave) Macleod routes on the Comb Buttress... it slightly made our HVS seem quite a small endeavour but we weren't worried.

Pitch 2 before it got gnarly!

We were the second team on the route, and what a route indeed. Every pitch was memorable. Pitch 1 - hard moves off the ground were a shock to the system. Pitch 2 (crux in my mind) - was a longgg corner, meant to be only 35m, but went on and on getting harder and harder.. I ran out of the 15 quickdraws! Pitch 3 - physical traverse then nice clean easier climbing in a dramatic position. Pitch 6 - second crux taking the easiest line through some roofs on hidden holds. Pitch 7 - only 4c, but a real sting in the tail and hard to get through (unexpectedly).

Pitch 3

During the day I realised that I've never been to the Ben in summer, and it's even more impressive than in winter, an absolute sea of rock and opportunity.

Official crux, pitch 6... easier than pitch 2

In the bag! Look at all of that rock..

We were both elated when we got to the ledge at the top and after taking in the view we descended Ledge Route. It is without doubt the best HVS mountain route I have ever climbed... but now I quite fancy Bullroar (HVS), King kong (E2) and The Bat (E2)...

friendly deer, the Douglas Boulder (Tower ridge) and NE Buttress behind