Seeking the Midnight Sun

I've always wanted to visit Norway, firstly after seeing pictures of Lofoten and the amazing climbing, and latterly the thought of skiing above the fjords in winter.. but for that I definitely would need to improve my skiing to get the most from it!

The Tromso coast area

Probably at about 11pm!

Then some time back a chain of events led to me reading about a mountain bike race in Northern Norway. I procrastinating over the expense and idea of it all for a few months. Then after a few drams and with Abi away one dark winter night the credit card came out and I entered the race!

The midnight sun

Tromso coast walking

I know I could have gone to Norway without entering this race, but somehow it gave a fixed point and reason to go. The trip although not long in time, became a very exciting prospect. If honest the race was secondary and I really wanted to go to Northern Norway and be in the arctic circle and explore it a little.

Walk up the wee hill near Sommaroy

We flew into Tromso and almost immediately were blown away by the place. The views on stepping out of the airport of the sea/fjord and snow topped mountains were very compelling.

The bridge over to Sommeroy

Kayakers

As it was mid summer it doesn't get dark at the moment in N Norway and we quickly adjusted to this fact. You slot into a different schedule, we explored in the day maybe chilled out for a few hours around 7 - 9pm, and then you go out again, either walking on the beach, up a mountain, or whatever really. And clearly this is normal to the locals, who would be out jogging or cycling in the middle of the night.

The fishing folk at Hella

We also took a drive West from Troms and explored some islands towards Sommaroy. This place was very different again with white Caribbeanesque (I imagine) beaches. We climbed a small hill to admire the views before returning to the city.

Stopping at Hella on the way back was pretty special. Old wooden houses and buildings removed from Tromso during modernisation have been removed and put here to form a surreal empty village museum next to the fjord. Lots of locals come to this spot to fish from the rocks and it was fun to watch the fishing as the ships passed by.

Hella still..

One night we went up Fjellheisen hoping to see the midnight sun. At the top of the gondola (we walked up) you can go onwards and higher, so we hiked to the next top (the mountain continued beyond, but we stopped at this point) and although we didn't see the midnight sun the views of the city were great. I think we got back at 1am and it was still light obviously - very strange, and yet normal...

hold ups at the supermarket

The Tromso area certainly has a lot to see and do and I was glad that we had some time here before moving on..

hiking up Fjellheisen

hut part way up

Tromso at midnight (cloudy so no sun!)

The time is nigh!

I've lost count on how many times I've nearly gone to climb the Cioch Nose in Applecross, or maybe that's an exaggeration, but there have been a few over the last 2 years. So given a positive forecast we headed out West when Jack eventually turned up (he was 5 mins late).

the bealach

We stopped for a quick coffee and cake on the way through Loch Carron and I was immediately reminded of Martin Moran being in his home village. The last time I had bumped into him was at Moy last year I think and he was with Andy Nisbet. Now both sadly gone, what a loss.

now where are we

The weather did look fine until we got near the top of the Bealach na Ba. At the top it was completely claggy with 5-10m of visibility and then started to rain. We quickly got bored and went for some respite down to Applecross where typically the weather was fine.

oh there it is!

After more loafing around, seeing the weather was improving and trusting the forecast we headed back to the Bealach. By now it was clear but very cold with an icy wind!

the approach ledge

Wearing all layers we headed up the track to the aerial mast. Mistake number 1 - I hadn't felt the need for a map as the description all sounded very straight forward.. "walk 150m East from the mast, find a grassy gully to descend".. Well we didn't have a map or compass and quickly set off the wrong way as it looked more plausible.

show boating

We ended up round on Sgurr a' Chaorachain, but with a fine view of the Cioch Nose! We later realised why, because from the mast the route to/from the Cioch Nose is very unassuming, all you can see is a rocky plateau and nothing else indicating a promontory or ridge, which in fact it very much is. I guess that's because it has hundreds of Paps/lumps/ridge undulations (well 7 I think).

From our position we were able to roll and slip down another steep grassy slope into the valley and follow it along to the start of the climbing.

the top of the pitched climbing

It's a staggering place, so dramatic with so much rock! The weather was okay, probably no better than okay, but the rock was dry and the climbing brilliant. Such a classic route. The 6 pitches seemed to pass quite quickly but it's almost after this that the fun starts.

looking back at some of the Paps

Loz had warned me that the scrambling after this goes on a while and he wasn't kidding. We decided to solo it keeping a rope and gear handy in case but we never used it. Even doing it this way it seemed to go on forever with many down climbs then re-ascents between the Paps.

up/down

It felt very alpine and grand and I think I had kind of underestimated the day, or at least thought it would be physically easier than it was, but a great day out. It will be interesting to go back for some of the other routes at some point, and Jack was a good sport carrying out a stone for the patio on the last mile or so!

goodbye cioch nose

Ballachulish Blast

With inclement weather forecast, and my flaw of list ticking and exploring new (trail) areas's I decided to head over to the West for a mountain bike ride.. It's been ages since I've headed lochaber way and set off reasonably early after dropping Abi at the airport but it still took forever and there were a serious amount of 'bumberly' tourists on the roads.

I reasoned with myself on the drive over that I would attack the ride and try and go quickly for training reasons...

first distraction 

But almost immediately this didn't happen as the first section from Ballachulish along the old railway line towards Oban (now cycleway) was just too scenic and I had to sit by the sea, look at the rocky beach, take some pictures and paddle!

The weather too was hot, 20 degree's and sunny, which was very different to the forecast drizzly day. It felt warm enough to swim, but it was too early on the ride for this... must press on..

imposter on the throne

Then I saw a side trail in the forest to the spot where a famous Scot was murdered hundreds of years ago... So I had to look at this too.. By the time I got to Duror and the forestry section I knew that the ride had very much changed from training to fun..

Cycling up into the forest behind Beinn a Bheithir I saw a sign for another exploratory trail to the birthplace of James Stewart (interesting but barbaric tale, follow the link) ... and well.. I had to look!

This deviation was a great trail, and seeing three young back packers heading out with bags of rubbish made me think that it must be a bothy (I'd imagined a ruin)... The bothy was really cool and included a throne which I amused myself with for far too long.

arty time

Now I was completely off route (I could see the forestry track down in the valley below) I thought well I'm committed to enjoying myself so I'll just carry on and hope the tracks converge (the map wasn't clear). Brilliant single track led East from the bothy and eventually rejoined the main track at the watershed.

lovely trail...

The views had been fine all day, but as I came out of the forest at the head of Gleann an Fhiodh the view to the Mamores was spectacular. Sadly someone was killed by lightning on one a couple of hours after I was stood admiring them. I'd been thinking all day it would have been great up top today, and the weather was so humid that I guess it triggered a storm just after I left the area.

Shinty time

Before I left this view I spent ages taking pictures and felt unbelievably happy and refreshed even though I wasn't getting far on the ride!

There was a bit of bog to navigate in this open valley section that returns you to Ballachulich, but soon the trail became really interesting and quite technical at times with numerous small river crossings..

I rolled into Ballachulich after pausing briefly to watch the shinty match and somehow a 30km ride had taken me 4' 30".. and I felt like I had been out for days as there was so much to see and explore. Really fell in love with this area and it made me realise that this is the kind of ride I love... (slow!)!

The Long Road to Ullapool

I'd mentioned to Rob on the cycle tour that I had an interesting 75 mile mt bike route lined up for the following week. But when we got home after that trip after drying out I went for the book I'd seen it in and discovered that it was not 75 miles but 75km.

this GPS thing is good!

Really not a big deal, but as well as wanting to ride this route I thought it would of been just the right challenge if it had been in miles..

Old croft

The route starts from Black Bridge on the A835 and ends in Ullapool. Google research and the book suggested an Inverness coach company offered bike transport for the return, but ultimately that wasn't the case...

I bought a Garmin GPS ages ago, mainly because it's required for the Offroad Finnmark race, and hadn't really used it, but having found a file online for this particular route I loaded it on to test out the technology (that I seem to be the last person using).

Setting off reasonably early, immediately it was great having the GPS route showing me the way and not having to get maps out at every estate track junction as I headed North gently gaining height towards Loch Vaich.

I passed some interesting croft ruins before entering the Alladale Estate where everything seemed a lot more managed. When I say managed I don't mean in a bad way as there were masses of new tree's planted and I know to an extent the estate are 'rewilding' wanting to reintroduce wolfs..

My next stop was the Church at Croick and I had another look at the East window were people evicted from the Glencalvie area during the Highland Clearances had scratched words, names and dates into the glass. Very thought provoking and tragic.

old school house bothy

From here the track, although not technical got a little wilder and was really nice and interesting as again I went over another watershed before dropping to Duag Bridge and the (old) school house bothy. I decided to have some food and a 10 minute break here as energy levels were low. I think this was at approx 47km.

lesson time

I met an interesting American 'hiker' in the bothy who was walking the Cape Wrath Trail, he talked about how much hiking he has done, before saying he wouldn't recommend this trail to anyone! I wasn't convinced that his paper thin and shredded waterproofs were totally the right decision for this trail, allegedly the toughest (at least boggiest) walk in the UK. He sounded pretty miserable as he has been wet with not great weather for days. I didn't cheer him by informing him that Sat and Sunday were very wet - but I couldn't lie!

where have my legs gone..

I think I had misjudged my food intake and that partly accounted for the empty legs and I really struggled on the next section to the Knockdamph bothy were I had another sneaky (from myself) rest!  Pretty good bothy... From here as I'd eaten back at the school house my energy levels came back - phew.

luxury bothy room !

I saw more Cape Wrathers on the next section, seemingly better equipped than the American with more substantial waterproofs!

wee rest - don't tell anyone

As the trail dropped to Glen Achall and the Rhidorroch estate I felt a little empty again and the persistent strong head wind had been with me for the last 2 - 3 hours started to bug me.. Passing the Ullapool quarry that I didn't know existed I rolled into Ullapool and went straight to the Sea Food Shack for food - which was very good.

mmm food

So the bus hasn't been running for a few years despite the timetable still being online so I got a taxi back to my van having a great blether with Mrs Ewen on the drive back! A great day, but I'm not totally happy with my fitness and worry about how I will make twice this distance in a single 'sitting'.. Guess I have 2 months left at least!

Ullapool

footnote - putting my woes into perspective, yesterday the Highland Trail 550 (miles) race started.. I know a couple from Kendal in it, and it's incredible to think that they will eat up 550 miles and I'm worried about 150km/90 miles!

footnote 2 - It's just struck me that the thing I enjoy most about cycling is the journey, exploring and taking pictures to try and capture the essence of it without rushing through too much.. so this race in Norway is going to be difficult because I really want to take my camera and a small tripod on it.. but know I can't.. what am I doing!?

Pie dealers to Pipers

Just back from 3 days cycle touring with Abi, Janet and Rob. We have been on a few cycling trips together over the years including the sustrans route from Newcastle to Edinburgh, which they call the Coast and Castles route. This is on the national cycle route number 1, which is part on the North Sea cycle route, or EuroVelo 12... Confused?! Basically it's a 6000 km signed cycle route around the North Sea.

Very green rolling countryside in Banffshire

We decided to do another section of it and originally wanted to continue from where we finished last time at Edinburgh and go through to Aberdeen (roughly 180 miles I think), but we had issues trying to book bikes on trains so ended up skipping this section at the moment and cycling the next section - Aberdeen to Inverness.

This was quite appealing on paper given the fact that we would literally finish at home, but none of us knew what to expect from the actual cycling as it doesn't get much press. We ended up with a mileage count of 155 miles over the 3 days.

Near Banff

Now might be a good time to describe how we travel as a pack... slow and heavy! This isn't a complaint, but we use B&B's (so middle class, but nice!) and it always seems to take the whole day to do our normal (approx) 50 miles a day. And I'm not sure if the others are the same but I have 2 panniers full of stuff that I generally don't use.

Portsoy

Clearly we are quite modestly slow, but by not rushing we get to see lots, stop when we want, and have cafe breaks! It just works!

Day 1 - Arriving in Aberdeen we found a slightly strange cafe for 2nd breakfast. It was like a Gregs, or a cake/pastie shop, with 4 or 5 older women defending the counter between fag breaks. It sold all sorts, including lots and lots of pies. The (overly) efficient staff pressured me into an egg and bacon roll whilst the others bided their time over their choice. Early nerves tempted us to buy pies for the road, not knowing what was out there... but we stayed strong and left just full of eggs..

Turriff, a nice small town with a cow

Once on the outskirts of Aberdeen we hit an old railway line and stayed on this for hours, nice, easy carefree cycling in the sunshine. We just made it to the cafe at Maud for a late lunch at 3pm before it closed at 3.30pm. It's important to point out that after savoury Rob had the biggest piece of cake I have ever seen.

Cullen - another great seaside spot

By the time we left the old railway line and Maud we were really happy to be back on the roads and have some variety from flat straight lines. The roads to Turriff and our first nights stay were some of the best road cycling I can think of. Rolling hills, beautiful scenery and no cars.

On-route to Buckie

I was almost sad to finish the day.. but it was nice to get a shower and food in a pub/come grill. Amazingly Callum (who I have started some filming with and met on a photography course) was staying in the same B&B as we works out East as an Eco Consultant for a big power line project - small world.

Day 2 - After a leisurely breakfast we headed North on even more beautiful lanes following a river system to the Moray Coast and we popped out at Banff. It was here that the ice cream troubles started.. People at work had said that Cullen's ice cream was the best, but Abi's friend had informed her that Portsoy's was even better.. Loitering outside the public toilets an old man wandered past in a well worn black leather jacket and said that Cullen's was superior... it was now 2:1 to Cullen.

Spey Bay

A beautiful section of cycling ensued along the coast. The sun was out and spirits were high. I was even considering a dip in the sea. Portsoy like everywhere else here was stunning, but there wasn't much in the village and after a brief stop we skipped through without lunch or ice-cream, something that would haunt us (?forever).

Spey Bay

Rolling into Cullen we had a great late lunch (again) in a cafe and I completed a lifelong dream by having Cullen Skink in Cullen! So we were in the village famous for it's ice cream, but all too full to have any, so we had the bright idea of pushing on through to Spey Bay for ice cream.

We arrived at Spey Bay (where the river Spey joins the sea) and the Dolphin Centre (there's not much else here) just as it was closing and a slightly unhelpful member of staff told us it was just closing so no ice cream.. This was all quite upsetting as you can imagine so after watching the sea and chomping bars we continued heading to Elgin.

Buckie - picture for work mate who comes from here

Elgin was pretty fun, with generally great cycle ways and we ended up in a posh B&B. In the evening we tried the Turkish restaurant, which was very good for the soul (lots of Aubergine and cheese), but the Turkish coffee that Abi and I had at 10pm was a complete disaster and meant an unsettled night on a caffeine trip..

Day 3 - Another day, another cooked breakfast for me! Today was a shock to the system as it was raining in the morning and continued all day. I didn't take any outside pictures on this day. The cycling was nice, again lots of quiet roads, probably particularly scenic around Cawdor and near Culloden Moor, and we did have a nice long lunch stop at Brodie Country Fair but my battle today was keeping warm enough as after a few hours I was pretty wet everywhere.

Sheltering from the rain on day 3.. pleased with lunch

The last couple of hours for me at least was pretty miserable as I was really cold by the end and struggling to generate enough heat given the slow pace. Finally we made the outskirts of Inverness home of the Highland pipers and headed for the Kessock Bridge and the finish.

It was great arriving home, and as soon as we dropped down into North Kessock we were sheltered from the weather. I immediately lit the fire as someone got the kettle on and we eat cake, drank tea and put on dry clothes. Happy to finish, but another great cycle trip with the gang.

footnote - at the pub later in the evening the talk of the Edinburgh to Aberdeen section gathered pace... tbc

footnote 2 - as you can see I didn't take many photo's on this trip! I just enjoyed the ride!