Half Days Cragging

The forscast for Sunday was great, but quite warm! So the options were limited to snowy munro's or go for the highest crag we could think of with easy quick access (in case it had melted!)!

Creagan Cha-no, the small crag on Cairngorm over looking Strath Nethy seemed to be our best and perhaps only bet, and besides I'd always wondered what it was like.

Gentle walk in

I was a little worried that it might be busy... as we parked up there were lots of climbers about and a big team from the RAF mountain rescue packing bags and ropes.. Boy was it warm on the 1 hour walk up to the crag at just over 1000m.

Where's this crag

We didn't need to worry the RAF disappeared somewhere else and it wasn't too busy at the crag, in fact I bumped into a couple of climbers from Aberdeen I'd met on Penguin Gully a couple of weeks ago.

Chimney Rib

When we dropped off the rim down to the climbs it felt like an oven with the sun reflecting off the snow. Most of the crag was perfect dry rock that would of been great to climb if we'd had our rock boots.

Huw following up

But we'd come for the winter routes and by looking in the deeper and shaded spots we found 2 great routes to climb, Chimney Rib and Anvil Gully, both great fun and in good condition.

Huw avoiding the cornice 

We both felt happy after the 2 routes, the other teams seemed to be heading home after one route with the Mediterranean conditions so we headed down to Aviemore as Huw was getting twitchy because the 6 Nations was due on.

Anvil Gully

So a perfect day really, nice easy walk, 2 fun climbs, before a big lunch in Aviemore and the Rugby! I must meet up with Huw more often now he's hit middle age!

An Teallach

Exciting weekend as Huw was visiting, well in truth he was already up here working but had a free weekend to catch up - brilliant!

I've not seen Huw for a few years, and the last time that we winter climbed together there was a slight avalanche incident and broken ankle.... but hey who hasn't had these days out...

So we hoped to winter climb and lots of potential plans were banded around but in the end due to various boring reasons, including weather we were restricted on Saturday and opted to just go up Hayfork Gully on An Teallach - an easy day!

The coire looking great but freshly plastered maybe..

Unfortunately it didn't quite go to plan. Huw had been in this area all week instructing, and a couple of days before one of the other groups had been up it and reported great conditions, but as we entered the Coire (which is very impressive) it quickly occurred to both of us that we may have to change the plan!

The wind had shifted a lot of the snow around drastically and filled all of the gully's (and most of the faces) with fresh snow which was starting to form windslab. We both kidded ourselves that maybe things would be fine, but as soon as we got near the gully safely viewing it from a rock band we both knew without speaking - it was a no go!

plans changed

We found a safer, scoured way up and took in one of the summits as the weather deteriorated rapidly as forecast with very strong wind, low cloud and some snow. We got a view of the classic An Teallach ridge just before all upper mountain views were suspended for the day!

Finding a safer route up (wishing I'd ditched the pole sooner!)

Because of the weather we headed down, picking a ridge that Huw hadn't been on before. It was great with sheer edges, rocks, snow slopes all appearing through the murk as the visibility came and went (mainly went).

As we dropped height the views came back, but also the mildness was very evident as our crampons were balling up every other step, definitely not a day for winter climbing (well not here anyway).

Wheres the way down!

What was great about the day (as well as being out and hanging with Huw) was talking about the snow, looking at conditions, decision making, monitoring the quickly building windslab and observing how potentially dangerous snow conditions were building on 3 aspects. A really interesting day.

Huw back in the views

l'éléphant sur les allumettes

Well.... 'The storms roll in, and the storms roll out, be merry my friend, be merry...'.

I had no real plans this weekend, but the mountain weather forecast looked pants but there was plenty of snow around and I've always wanted to try xc skiing so headed to Glenmore forest on Saturday, got some planks from the Pine Marten and hit the forest.

Day 1

Such fun immediately! I just loved zooming (well maybe crawling) around the forest following the 'groomed' (term used very loosely here!) xc track around the Loch Morlich area. I did however feel like an elephant on match sticks...

coffee break

I enjoyed it so much that I extended the hire for 2 days and went back on Sunday too. On Sunday the mountain was closed (snow gates shut) so I had to park up short of the tracks and just headed into the forest exploring the tracks on both sides of the road. Brilliant.

Day 2

I also bumped into Jen and Graham too and did an extra loop with them. A great weekend, but the problem is now I need to add more outdoor gear to the list!

Fat biker enjoying the snow

Penguin gully on Beinn Dearg

So after Beinn Eighe we decided to go for another big day! I'd convinced myself that this day could be achieved in about 8 hours because I made two fatal miscalculations. Firstly I believed Loz when he said 'yeah sure, its only about 2 hours to walk in to Beinn Dearg' from Ullapool way. And secondly I didn't acknowledge (look - oops) at the description for Penguin gully and just presumed that it was around 200m long and not 350m - haha.

The walk in.. (Shaws pic)

Now wheres Penguin Gully..

Anyway another early start saw us leaving the car at 7.30am, and what a long walk it was into an icy head wind for hour, after hour, after hour (exaggerating for effect). I think it took around 4 hours but it was a beautiful walk and I'd never been up into this mountain group from this aspect before.

Santuary! Gearing up

Loz heading up to the obvious gully

Luckily near the route start there was a giant boulder to shelter behind and gear up. We then spotted  a team of 3 ahead of us on the climb.

Loz setting off

Judith following Shaw (his pic)

The gully was in good and easy condition with great solid neve and ice for protection and belays where required. We joined the queue and pitched most of it even though it would have been fine to solo....

The 3 guys we overtook on top

After a couple of hundred meters even though we were enjoying ourselves I think we were ready to finish as we were being held up by the slow team ahead so Loz and I just stopped pitching it and moved together for the last 100-150m putting in some protection between us on the 50m rope.

Heading down

This saw us top out at about 4pm I think and we carried on the short way to the top of the munro to take in the amazing views. The wind had dropped by now and it felt great being in such an amazing place for the second day running.

Loz looking back across to Penguin gully

Shaw and Judith topped out a little later and we met them again on the flatter section near the start of the route as we were heading into the dusk.

And again.. great view of Penguin

What followed was a long walk out and I think its fair to say that we all found it tough. I was hallucinating a little on the walk out thinking I could see sheep everywhere (white rocks) and I was 100% convinced that they were following me in a line, but obviously everytime I turned around no sheep just the glow of Shaw and Judith's head torches a short distance behind.

Shaw's pic of Judith starting the walk out

We were meant to be all having a dinner party after this, but we didn't get back to Contin until 9.30pm after an amazing, but very tiring 13.5 hr hill day....

Losing the light now

Food, a little wine and whisky did get consumed, but I certainly didn't have much energy in me for conversation as I was nearly asleep at the dinner table.

The day after I had a lie in and did nothing but smile!

Torridon ice hunt

Shaw made another trip North from the Lakes to climb and sample Loz's whisky collection.. I wasn't sure if the pair of them would be in a fit state for a big day after some drams but they were as awake as me when I met them at 6am for the drive West towards Torridon.

Nice walk in

Looking further North

We settled on Beinn Eighe and hoped to climb its East Buttress (IV, 4), which takes a line up the left most buttress of the three (looking at them) after traversing into it on a long snow slope. Its North facing and the guide book stated that it can be climbed in any conditions - we'd had some thaw, but it had gone back to cold and the snow had consolidated. 

Lets traverse...

Shaw

Keep traversing...

The walk in to the corrie is quite long but on a good path. I can see that if this path was under snow it would an even more time consuming trek. I was pretty blown away by the view when we turned the corner and could see the triple buttresses and our planned route. Its a pretty magical place.

Me somewhere on the route

Loz topping out into the sun

The Triple Buttresses looked a little bare and 'un-wintery' initially but our route looked to have more cover with definite snow on it (in places!). The traverse in along a banked out snow shelf was fun, and time consuming as we used the rope for some of it and it went on and on.

Sanctuary of the top

At the bottom of the route we again paused not sure of how wintery the route was, but as we climbed it quickly became apparent that it was in winter 'nic' and axes and crampons were required! I certainly wouldn't have fancied some of the snowy grooves/corners without.

enjoying the views

It was a great route with some lovely mixed rock sections and the views of Liathach and a large portion of the Highlands was great. The descent due South from Coinneach Mhor was a steep and unpleasant end to the day, I think next time I'll try a different way down.. But overall a great but reasonably tiring day, 11 hours car to car!

Whats in a picture?

Everything, and nothing!

On Sunday we went to explore Alladale in the far North. This is an amazing place, area and estate. It's quite well known because the Laird, Paul Lister wants to reintroduce bears and wolves. I love the idea of this and re-wilding but can't see it happening in my lifetime due to the complications of the idea... but I would love to be proved wrong on this.

here comes the weather

It was bitterly cold and snow was forecast throughout the day. It also felt very remote as we drove down the lightly snow covered dead end road to the parking. Setting off it was simply joyous riding through silky fresh snow as the views of the mountains drifted in and out.

Because the weather was pretty harsh we just explored valley tracks on the estate but wow what a place. After a few hours the snow became quite heavy and we headed back to the van with out tracks now covered by fresh snow. It would have been good to have a fat bike in all of this snow.

love this picture

Whats in a picture...? Well on the way back when the snow was at its heaviest I quickly took out my camera and took this picture (above). There was no skill involved, it was just luck how it came out. But I think its the best picture I have ever taken! I love it as it really captures the atmosphere of the day and the activity. It means the world to me, but will mean nothing to many... such is life ;-)