Winter has appeared at last! Not much snow, but a dusting and some consistent cold temperatures this last week mean that mixed climbing is very good at present. Loz had a free day, and Shaw couldn't resist coming up from the Lakes so we agreed to climb in the Northern Corries due to its easy access and the fact that we knew 'it would be in'.
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gearing up at the lochan |
Interestingly there was a lot of chatter from some folk that stuff wasn't in good condition. Sure there wasn't much snow in gully's, or much ice, but boy the rocks were heavily rimed, and turf well frozen so stuff is in early season 'nic' even though its nearly the end of January.
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Belting conditions |
I don't do that much winter climbing, so had hoped we could do a couple of steady routes at grade III or IV, but I sort of knew Loz wouldn't have any of this!
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Hoarmaster is the deep square cut chimney |
A 5.30am get up saw us pick up Shaw in Aviemore at 7am, and at the Cairngorm car park at 7.30am. We were clearly the late arrivals with at least 10 teams ahead of us. But this was our deliberate tactic (yeah right).
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Loz checking out the start |
We headed into Coire an Lochain. The crag looked fantastic with many teams in situ on various routes. We originally aimed for Deep throat, but with a team on it instead of waiting we went across and climbed Hoarmaster VI, 6.
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me getting to the first belay |
Pretty steep and challenging, but a great route! Loz led it, I consolidated my skills (or lack of). My first grade VI (not done any V's either!). A team on the nearby 'The Gathering - IX, 9' were impressive to watch from our route, talk about steep!
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looking across to Katie and her pal on Deepthroat |
We topped out at 1pm into the sun. We did have time for a second route, but the will wasn't there from the team, and we made the decision to head back to Aviemore for cups of tea! No cycling but good cross-training today.
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2nd pitch of 'The Gathering' |