Climbing, but not at Logie Head...

Having a free Monday the plan was to climb at Logie Head, way out East on the Moray Firth Coast, but as I'd also booked my van into the garage and they were grumpy when I picked up the courtesy car and said 'this must be back for 5pm, no buts...' then it seemed a bit tight with the drive times and Martin's arrival time after sorting his horses.

Nice setting

He arrived a little weary... not due to his 'new' age of 60 (snigger), but because he had been up until 3am playing online chess!

Martin exploring the cave

Instead we headed to Cummingston, again on the Moray Firth Coast, just much nearer. I'd not been here so it was still exciting. The weather was nice and we saw some unusual Mammatus clouds on the drive over.

On left - VS 5a

The rock is sandstone of various quality and it was a lovely place to spend a day and climb. We climbed 6 routes I think, and the highlights were Right (HVS), Diedre of Doubt (HVS limited gear but fun) and Stegosaurus a fun VS. The bouldering looked fun too so I must pop back..

Bike exploration...

Time sure is flying and the weather has been brilliant and I've been out bouldering lots. Alas I think the midges and ticks have just arrived which could impact activities a little. I have to remember that this is the first Scottish summer having only moved up late last August.

Orrin reservoir 

Fun dam wall and ancient Scots Pine stump

For a change of scene we went to explore on a local ride that I'd read would be good after dry weather. It starts from Aultgowrie and heads up a private (no vehicles) single track road to the Orrin Reservoir. Even though this is on tarmac its a nice climb as the views open up the higher you get.

Riding over the dam at the top is fun and the track continues, quickly getting rougher once past the hydro scheme/dam. Just before turning off this track we stumbled upon a bothy (Scottish Hydro) which provided a welcome relief and we stopped for a snack in it and met a Lithuanian guy (the only other person we saw).

start of the single track...

From the bothy you have to find the start of a stalkers path that heads off into the moors which was no mean feat. This track which was vague to start with took us all the way back and provided some fantastic single track riding, tight, rocky, smooth, overgrown, fast, slow... it basically had it all and was great fun!

Diabaig delivers - BIG!

I spend a magical day climbing at Diabaig near Torridon with Shaw and Judith. What a day! Maybe I should just say that it was fantastic, but I don't think that quite cuts it. I want to say more....

Quick coffee...

I love being a climber... I love the people you meet and climb/share it with....I love the movement and sense of freedom that you get when climbing..... I love that by travelling all over the world you get to see different cultures, countries and see special and often unusual wild scenery. I love that you can have surprise interactions with nature and the landscape and elements.... I love that every different rock type and cliff is different to climb and makes you evaluate and adjust your technique.... I love the personal physical challenge of climbing.... I love the fact that climbing is an activity that is so absorbing that you (I) forget time, worries, and just focus in the movement and whats immediately in front of you...

The walk in..

Sometimes the actual climb can be fantastic or mediocre, and the setting can be on the same scale, so it can mean so much, or sometimes less so.... The climbing I remember from Yosemite in the states has great meaning to me, but some of it wasn't fantastic, far from it, but the situation, scale and being on El Cap, in Toulumne Meadows or the High Sierra made up for it! Sure some of the climbing was world class too, but I have a macro memory of it, more than the actual moves and lines (apart from Snake Dike of course!). And I also have memories (lots) of the fact that often gritstone climbing although much smaller with routes at 10-35m (at a stretch) is more aesthetic with magical, absorbing movements patterns.... zen like!

The Black Streak - E1

First pitch 'Route 2' - HVS

So yesterday (again) I hit black gold... I headed off early to meet Shaw and Judith at the Torridon campsite and we loaded up in the van and headed to Diabaig. It was sunny and warm, and the setting was absolutely stunning. Parked up at Diabaig we brewed up some coffee and sat by the van looking out to sea taking in the magical colours and movement of the water.

Shaw on The Pillar - E2

Felt lonely just watching..

Okay so the climbing was 'off the frickin hook' also (another American ref!). Just the most fantastic climbing that I can remember/think of. Crisp, clean lines/cracks with friction to die for whilst having sea views. We climbed route 2 (classic HVS) and The Black Streak (E1) - both 2 pitch. We weren't rushing, but talking about how relaxed and absorbed you can become I was slightly surprised that it was 4.30pm after just these 2 routes. Not wishing to leave just yet Shaw lead 'The Pillar', the classic E2 of the crag. An absorbing and spooky route to even second. Wow, wow, wow, what a day. Scotland really delivered today, who could ask for more than this.

West Coast Climbing action...

So after a day clearing the head on the bike I headed out west for some climbing fun in this brilliant weather. After meeting Jen in the Fort we first headed to Polldubh in Glen Nevis to climb a couple of routes as Jen said it's a world class climbing venue (strong words)...

Jen on the slab (Pandora)

Waiting for the next pitch..

Heatwave/Vampire combo

We climbed a couple of fun routes and she is totally on the money, amazing... amazing rock, amazing views/situation and atmosphere. I was hooked and wish I had more time for this great venue. I'll definitely be back when the midges (due soon sadly!) disappear.

On to Ard....

Salen!

Next on the hit list was Ardnamurchan.... we procrastinated a little as its a long drive but went for it.  One word - wow.... We climbed on the ring crags (Meall An Fhir-Eoin Beag) which after a very long drive took 1 hour to walk to.

Time to walk (crag on horizon)

Jen heading for the top on 1st route - Oswald

Very beautiful, with views of the sea, and from the crag you could see the whole ring (remnants) of the old volcano that we were climbing on. All the climbs here were amazing, but a highlight was 'Ring of Fire', the HVS we finished on. A magical place, and climbing trip - thanks Jen.

Amazing place

Questing

Love this rock

Sea views from the top